Main ingredients worth look at:
glycosaminoglycans- (GAGs eg.hialuronic acid) are the body's natural moisturizers, they hold moisture within skin cells and provide volume, elasticity, firmness.
keratolytic agents (AHA, glycolic acid, BHA, salicylic acid)- these ingredients are exfoliants that remove dead and damage cells, reducing fine lines, age spots, discoloration, acne scars. They invigorate, add radiance to the skin, allow other ingredients to penetrate faster, deeper, more effectively because they disrupt the stratum corneum. These acids break bonds between the dead cells of the SC and the skin beneath, retinoids may be deactivated by simultaneous application of AHAs.
Explanation of ingredients:
a) alpha hydroxy acids and glycolic acids- AHAs are water-soluble, they have a positive effect on sun-damaged skin, bind moisture and improve collagen production. Glycolic acid is the original AHA used in skin care products, it can irritate and scar darker skins (introduce them gradually using products that contains the AHA mandelic or malic acid be safer)
b) beta hydroxy acid and salicylic acid- since these exfoliants are fat-soluble they can penetrate the oil in pores, unclogging them and clearing the debris, their anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties make them effective with oily skin prone to blackheads, acne also reduce redness from rosacea.
c) anti-oxidants- they save cells from environmental damage, turn scavenging free radicals into harmless compounds and stop them from destroying DNA, collagen, elastin. Topical anti-oxidants supplement the body's innate defense to neutralize free radicals, they boost cell repair, stimulate collagen production, reduce blotchiness. Some multi-task but most powerfull when they used in packs and tackle free radicals in different ways. Below is list of specific topical anti-oxidants:
-vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is the most abundant anti-oxidant in skin, neutralize age-promoting free radicals that cause inflammation, contributes to the production of new collagen, thickening the skin and reducing fine lines, wrinkles, strengthnes the skin barrier by stimulating the production of lipids, which keeps the skin from drying out. Vit. C works synergistically with vit. E to boost the effectiveness of sunscreen further protectin skin from sun damage. At concentration of 5% or higher works to correct hyperpigmentation.
-vitamin E (tocophenols, tocotrienols, tocophenyl acetate) is fat-soluble, concentrate mainly in the stratum corneum to absorb the oxidative stress from UV radiation, protects cells membranes and prevent collagen from being destroyed by UV rays, boosts skin natural moisture retention mechanisms, protect from the formation of age spots and scarring.
-alpha lipoic acid is found in every cell of the body, protects against environmental stressors including UV radiation, cigarette smoke, auto exhaust, ozone, erases fine lines, diminishes pores, gives skin radiance. It is water and fat-soluble which makes it very versatile.
-coenzyme Q10 it has been shown to reduce facial wrinkles, particularly around eyes. Its actions include promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts, which produce collagen and intracellular matrix, enhancing production of the cells in the epidermal basal membrane.
-selenium is essential trace mineral which has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties, helps prevents skin cancer by protecting cell membranes from oxidative deterioration and UV ray damage, works synergistically with vitamin E.
d) retinoids (retinol, retinyl palmitate) is a key ingredients for skin renewal, it is a vitamin A derivative that acts on DNA to promote healthy keratinocytes which results in desired epidermal thickering. Stimulates growth hormones to increase production of collagen and elastin as it decreases production of collagenase the enzyme that eats up collagen, sweep away dull cells, speed up cell turnover and repair, the powerful ingredients pumps up circulation in the skin and increases blood vessel information, also shrink oil glands and tighten the skin. Can make your skin sensitive to the sun so be certain to use sunscreen!
e) skin brighteners are often use for pre-procedure conditioning to reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, they work by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase which signals production of melanin in the skin.
- red algae extract (palmaria palmata, oligosaccharide) is extract from marine algae revitalizes and moisturizes stressed skin by protecting the dermal matrix and stimulating, protecting the epidermal barrier. Its fights against redness and uneven skin tone as well.
- phenylethyl resorcinol is a new lightening and brightening ingredient, it's an anti-oxidant that is effective in influencing the formation of pigmentation.
- hydroquinone is an effective skin lightener that may or may not have some serious health risks, particularly for people with darker complexions.Since it blocks the production of melanin, skin protection from UV rays is diminished resulting in increased cancer risk. When you choose a skin brightener make sure other brighteners are in compound and hydroquinone is not the first ingredient.
- alpha-arbutin is derived from the leaves of blueberry, mulberry, cranberry and bearberry bushes. It is a natural source of hydroquinone and has the same melanin-inhibiting properties, it has been found to be a somewhat effective alternative to hydroquinone.
- resveratrol is a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory found in red grape skin that suppresses excess melanin production, known as ,,red wine anti-oxidant,, that is why you will find grape seed oil in skin care products. Its also found in acai oil made from a South American berry, the spice turmeric is a source of resveratrol which also improve mitochondrial function the production of energy in the cells.
f) azelaic acid a component of wheat, barley, rye, other grains. Is used to treat acne and proven helpful in treating skin discolorations.
g) kojic acid is produced by fermentation of rice in the production of sake. It is a somewhat effective melanin inhibitor. Is an unstable ingredient but kojic dipalmitate, an anti-oxidant is more stable and used in cosmetics.
h) licorice extract produce from the root of the licorice plant, is recommended for treating eczema, psoriasis, herpes, canker sores. Liquiritin (substance found in licorice) had been found effective in treating melasma, a hyperpigmentation disorder.
i) peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. They are engineered in the lab foe skin care products and synthesized into different combinations so they can enter the stratum corneum and affect the functioning of the epidermis and dermis. Peptides were first used topically to heal wounds and reduce the formation of scar tissue, promoting the production of normal skin cell, they are use to regulate the growth rates of skin cells, to limit oxidation and to create an anti-inflammatory environment to optimal healing conditions.
j) the mystique of stem cells have power to restore your skin, even skin tone and lighten freckles, dark spots, uneven pigmentation, increase elasticity and reduce sagging, hydrate skin, smooth skin, erasing lines and wrinkles, reduce the appearence of scars and large pores, regulate sebum production and enhance the skin's renewal process, therapy triggers skin cells to reproduce and to communicate more clearly with each others.
k) stabilizing agents ceramides constitute half the cornified layer's lipid or fat content, the lipids between skin cells seal them together. Ceramides are critical components of the skin barrier that keeps moisture in and pathogens out, they keep your skin healthy and vibrant. The ingredients boost ceramide levels and free fatty acid lvl in skin:
- niacinamide (B3) is a water-soluble vitamin that increases ceramide levels which prevents the skin from losing water by stimulating circulation in the dermis through vasodilation, decreases lines and wrinkles by increasing dermal protein and collagen production, reduce acne, lightening skin discoloration, as anti-oxidant is impreves epidermal barrier function and quiets inflammation.
- hyaluronic acid is a sugar produced by body to keep tissues cushioned and lubricated, it's found in the skin, joint fluid, connective tissues, absorbs water and plumps up skin. When use as ingredient in moisturizers it helps skin to repair and regenerate, most effective with vit. C to smooth skin.
- linoleic acids and phospholipids free fatty acids function to replenish the intercellular matrix, increase the skin own anti-oxidant nature, prevent anti-oxidant enzyme depletion and DNA degradation.
l) botanicals more than seventy natural ingredients from plants have been use today in care products, top one are:
- caffeine used as topical ingredient is an anti-oxidant that can inhibit the growth of skin cancer, has power to reduce wrinkles especially crow's feet.
- isoflavones derived from soy, are plant estrogens that mimic some of estrogen's effects on skin. Phytoestrogens couple with estrogen receptors which are denset in the granural layer keep skin from thinning and correct dryness and lose of elasticity, they combat free radicals and increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
- green tea has anti-oxidant and anti-inflamatory properties, can reduce sun damage, protect skin from cancer and decrease collagen breakdown.
- marula oil this oil comes from the fruit of the tree from South Africa when is use as moisturizer. A hydrating ingredient it contains high levels omega fatty acids and anti-oxidants, soften the skin and balanced moisture levels.
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